Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Happy Holidays!

Here we are. December 28, in the last remaining days of 2010. This New Year will mark 1.5 years for me. Last holiday season I had just arrived and I was a vastly different person. Seems a little longer and shorter than 1.5 years all at the same time. Whew. So what to talk about in this post? A few things. One, I want to explain the grand tradition of Holiday parties in this country [namely among Kazakh people] and two, talk about the general set-up for a party or "toy". There is a specific formula, down to the very words one says. If you deviate from that formula, God help you.

The recipe for any "toy" [ТОЙ] consists of a few key ingredients. One, inviting persons and reason [i.e. a birth, birthday, wedding or holiday]. There are glossy photographed invitations for things like weddings and birthdays. Each is handwritten to the person or family to be invited. The second ingredient is a large cafe or restaurant.
These places are rented out for any occasion during the year. These places make a large killing during the holiday season because most
schools, colleges and businesses take their employees and teachers out to the cafe [each person has to pay for themselves, of course]. Sometimes a seat can cost as much as $50. They pay for the room, food for each person and dependent on who is available, the entertainment.
Every weekend, you can hear and see a line of cars colorfully decorated, no doubt a wedding party. They drive around town after the ceremony and end up at one of the aformentioned restaurants for
the reception. We are talking more about holidays here, so..
The third item in the equation are the guests. They are seated at lavish tables covered with "salads" [mostly egg, mayo and crab concoctions] and bowls of fruit. Every table has its own bottle of cognac, wine and vodka [in the most lavish of cases, mostly weddings].
The fourth and very crucial part to having a successful "toy" is an MC. Man, these men get paid so much money. They are so important to keeping the f
ormula right that people will go to great lengths to get the best. The MC's job is to do one of two things. One, keep the crowd entertained and Two, announce who will make toasts.

TOASTS. This is the final and most important element in the equation. Without toasts, it wouldn't be a Kazakh "toy". And here's the secret about the toasts. Everyone makes the same one. The exact same one.
"May your children study well [even before they have them..], Be happy, be successful. I wish you good work and health." Now, I don't particularly have anything against making toasts, but I've been in this country long enough to get a little irritated after the 50th
one, still saying the same as the first. It's a big big big big big big cultural taboo to not keep within the toast formula. People will think you are crazy, unbalanced and may even take offense. Maybe. I'm not totally sure since I've never been audacious to try it.

The MC will invite and welcome the guests to sit down and eat. He will then call the first few on the list. They say their toasts, they sit down and people continue eating. There is some music, maybe a performance and the MC will introduce more on the list. Then, more dancing or a performance and so on. The cycle continues.
People eat, listen to toasts, dance and repeat. Another huge tradition [again, mostly at weddings] is to give gifts to the older members of either family. This happens also in regular non-wedding celebrations but they are limited to Directors or the parents of the person having the birthday or baby. These presents often include clothes, scarves and chocolate.

These "toys" can go on until 1 or 2 in the morning, but they can
also only last 2 hours. They vary in that respect. Mostly, they follow the strict formula laid out and perpetuated contently by the Kazakh people.

So now, for the formula:

Inviting party invites Guests.
Guests arrive, some with gifts.
Guests sit down, as directed by the MC.
The MC plays some music, dancing is encouraged.
The MC calls some people to give toasts.
4 or 5 guests give toasts for the occasion.
The MC invites a performance and then more dancing.
The MC announces that the food will be ready soon.
The MC then announces more people to give toasts.
The formula never breaks, continues just like this. Till the End.


A little sidenote, I recently had a Christmas concert and it went really well. It was a great time. Here is a link to some pictures. ENJOY!
Also, I want to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a safe and happy New Year. Cheers!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Respite, How I Welcome You

I've been super lucky enough to have spent the last 10 days in, what I believe to be, one of the most beautiful places on earth. The beginning of the Swiss Alps with some distant, but still just as loving, family and my best friend, Jen. We met in Zurich last week and have spent some great days together eating lots of good food and enjoying some much needed rest and depending on the endless kindness of Ursi, Marianne and Susie.
A brief itinerary I think will suffice for this post along with some pictures. Like I said, I met Jen in the airport in Zurich. I was a bit delayed getting out of Amsterdam and she had to wait for me for a bit but all was good. We got on the train and headed out to Spiez, where Ursi picked us up right away. Everything about traveling in Switzerland[minus the cost], makes it effortless. I had not a care in the world.Everything is clearly marked and the great thing is, if you aren't sure you can ask because most everyone speaks English. YES. Brilliant. I was immediately on vacation from the moment we touched down.
So, we met up with the rest of the family, had brunch at Susie's and Hans's, dinner at Marianne and Fritz's twice. Stefan and Lucas took us to a great aqua park, with an awesome sauna and outdoor pool.
They then took us to Bern where we tried roasted chestnuts and had some legit hot chocolate. We went into Thun with Susie and Hans for a huge parade of Harley Riders dressed like Santa Claus.
Fritz played in that parade too.
One of the days we made it out the Zermatt to see the Matterhorn and took the Gonergratt Bahn. I absolutely love the trains, I would have liked to take a longer trip but time and mostly money didn't allow us to.
So, all in all, we spent some good quality time with the family in Faltschen, Bern, Thun and around. Our excellent hosts have been nothing but giving, obliging and hospitable.
I hope that when they all make it to California sometime soon, we can do our best to return the favor. I'm heading back to KZ tomorrow morning, gearing up for a good 2 days of travel before I'm back to my site. For now, I'll end this here and pick up soon with more news when I return.