Interview For Year Two

During my teacher training last month I was approached by a nice woman who works for a youth magazine in Zhezkazgan.Her name is

Altanay and I met with her boss at a cafe one day for an interview. They asked me a series of questions, some interesting and some I expected. Here is a fairly comprehensive translation complete with pictures.

Title : Volunteer From the USA

Laura Marshall Volunteer [Peace Corps]

Altanay writes: This is the first time I have ever met a real American girl. She has many emotions and uses many hand gestures.

Laura, are all Americans so emotional, like you?

Wow, I didn't realize that I was so emotional! I guess, I tend to use hand gestures and show my emotions more because I am always dealing with a language barrier here.

How are Americans then?

That's a very interesting question. I'm not sure I can answer that,I cannot judge every American. [I was trying to say, people in America don't really share one way of acting.]

OK, No problem. Now about yourself.

I'm from Los Angeles, CA. I'm 24. I'm working for the Peace Corps for 2 years here. I've traveled to Spain, Tanzania, and many cities in Kazakhstan.

Who is in your family?

My mother, Gene and my brother.

Do you have a house?

Yes, we have a two story house with a garden in California. My mother likes to workin the garden and grow everything from tomatoes to flowers.

Where did you learn Kazakh?

In Almaty, and right now I'm taking lessons with a tutor.

Why did you choose to learn Kazakh and not Russian?

I am in Kazakhstan, not in Russia. [This came out a little harsher than I wanted, but they were really happy that I spoke Kazakh, so this article was probably a good platform for them.]

Our people here have a different mentality about our languages.

What do they think?

That's a difficult question to answer, I don't think I can explain it.

Ok, I understand.

Another question, What is your opinion on the qualities of Kazakhstan?

Good or bad?

Truthfully, bad.

Hold on, I'm thinking. mmm..... I would have to say that the way men can be way to aggressive with women. Not in all situations, but in general.

Aggressive?

Yes, I said aggressive. For the most part, men in the States ,not all of them, but most, generally respect women. Also, if a man is aggressive and abuses a woman he will be judged by other people and sent to court by the police. People don't let abuse go in the States. There are consequences. Here, men are seen as more valuable and prized than women. Therefore, some men grow up thinking there isn't a problem with only respecting other men and not women.

Do you think that women here want to be second to men?

[They just wrote that I laughed, which seems a little heartless to me.. I probably said something but I don't really remember]

What other negative qualities?

Well, in a matter of communication, there can be problems. Here, people speak very directly. They will say "No, you are wrong.", to your face. We[as Americans] tend to speak more apologetically, ask for forgiveness more and make more polite requests. It can be hard to communicate sometimes. We might say instead, "I'm sorry but that isn't correct."

It's not so good but everyone is content with everything. For example, when you teach the children, Local teachers speak to you when they are not right and they never say "I am not correct". An interesting conflict.

Yep, that never happens. [This is totally untrue in my experience, but overall, it's what she understood from what I said]

And finally, one more quality?

Well, the air and water are pretty polluted here in Zhezkazgan, so I would have to say the environment is a bit poor.

So now, what positive opinions do you have about our Kazakhstan?

Well, the people are very hospitable. They tell you to eat, eat, eat, eat all the time.

What national foods have you eaten? Kyrdak, Besbarmak?

I can't eat so much meat, but I love plovf and baursak.

What kind of Kazakh music do you know?

I know a few songs. Right now, I cannot really remember how any of them go.

Kairat Nyrtac, do you know him?

Yes, I do.

Laura, do you have a boyfriend right now?

Nope, not right now.

If one of our Kazakh boys were to ask you to marry, would you stay in Kazakhstan?

Wow, I don't know. I can't really say. The men are handsome [THEY ADDED THAT LAST ONE, I didn't say that.... ]

So, when will you get married?

Right now, I'm too young. I am only 24, I know that in Kazakhstan, I am very old! I want to have a career first, travel and make a life for myself. My next plan is to go back to university and travel to SouthEast Asia, namely Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia.

If and when you do get married, will you give up your dreams of traveling?

No, he will just travel with me!

How much does Peace Corps pay you?

I won't say how much but just know it's plenty for me.

Do you have local friends?

Yes, my teachers at Z.H.I.C. Aizhan, Aygul, Acel [should be Assem], Perizat and Ghulshat.

Thank you, this was very interesting!

WHEW. that's the whole interview. The rest of the article gives more of an overview of Peace Corps [корпус мира]. I hope it was interesting!

Link to photos, here.

Abai [Абай] and Chai [Чай]

I've decided to cover two topics in this post. Abai and Chai. Abai, better known as Abai Kunanbaev, is Kazakhstan's most celebrated poet and writer. His works have been published and circulated for decades and continues to make the Kazakh people proud. Chai, of course refers to black tea that is the staple of everyday life here. It is widely said and believed in these parts that if a ghosti table has no chai, it isn't a real table. Just like if a meal is without meat, it isn't food.Chai is a necessity. Saying no just isn't an option, one cup is mandatory upon entering a home whilst playing the role of guest. If you refuse chai, you will be hastily and incessantly combated against by your hosts. Why don't you drink chai? Are you ill? If you drink chai you won't be cold. If you drink chai you will heal your ailment. If you drink chai, you'll inherit 10,000 dollars for every cup you gulp down. Well, that last one isn't exactly true, but for diehard advocates of drinking tea, the people here act as if they believe it. What else is a staple and proud mark of the culture and lifestyle here? Abai, Abai, Abai. At least one monument exists in every major city here and some villages. Many cities name streets, magazines and parks after this man. He is best known for showcasing the strife and oppression of Kazakh people under Soviet rule. His poems are sometimes vague, depressing and anxious. He describes the steppe, his kinsmen, the woes they face, the out of control situation they have been enveloped in and continue to perpetuate because of widespread infectious complacency. He also touches on most topics that were most important for his time: weather, work and love. One of the first questions I received upon arriving in Zhezkazgan was whether or not I had read any of Abai's poetry. I, of course, replied yes. but that was a little far from the truth. I have successfully interpreted two of his poems [with a lot, and i mean, a lot of help from my dictionary] and they're just fine. I wouldn't call him a genius writer, but his timing in history has certainly made him a literary celebrity forever. Here is a fully interpreted short poem written by Abai:

WINTER

Broad-shouldered, white-coated, powdered with snow.

Blind and dumb, with a great big silvery beard,

Granddad Winter plods on with a frown on his brow,

By everything living hated and feared.

The grumpy old fellow does plenty of harm.

His breath stirs up blizzards, brings snow and cold.

With a cloud for a hat on his shaggy head,

He marches along, all the world in his hold.

His beetling eyebrows are knit in a frown.

When he tosses his head-dismal snow starts to fall.

Like a crazy old camel he acts in his rage.

Rocking and shaking our yurta's thin wall.

If the children run out to play in the yard

He pinches their noses and cheeks with cruel hands.

No sheepskin can keep out the freezing cold;

With his back to the wind, the shepherd stands.

The horses in vain try to shatter the ice-

The hungry herd scarcely shuffle their feet.

Greedy wolves-winter's henchmen-bar their fangs;

Watch, or disaster your flocks may meet!

Drive them off to safe pastures-don't wait until day.

You won't die if you sleep less-come, quicken your step.

Kondibai and Kondai aren't as wicked as wolves-

Don't let old man Winter, feast in our steppe.

Abai, 1888

So, this is obviously about winter entering the steppe and surrounding his village at the time. The Kazakh people way back when depended on animal husbandry. Sheep, horses, etc. The Kindibai and Kondai mentioned were rival villages near his own.

So to sum it all up, the drinking of Chai is a daily ritual that is so engrained that people usually work around tea time, while the writing of Abai is one of the most popular amongst the Kazakh people.

Kurban Ait

November 16 is a day that is celebrated and remembered by the Muslim world as Kurban Ait [Eid al-Adha in Arabic].This day is considered [when following the lunar Islamic calendar], to be the 10th day of the 12th and very last month. These festivities begin following the ending of the sacred Hajj, or annual pilgrimage to Mecca. This date is exactly 70 days [2 months and 10 days] after the end of Ramadan. It is a commemoration of the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishamel even when a ram was sent by Allah to be killed in his place. The reward for his total obedience to God was the saving of his son. The goat was from that moment forward [in the Muslim tradition] to represent all of the world's sins, which are forgiven once the goat is sacrificed. There are differences in the cast of characters in the story from both Christian and Jewish perspectives, which recognize the book of Genesis version where the son is actually Israel and no substitute sacrifice is offered.

Here in Kazakhstan, there are different levels of celebration from very traditional to the more culturally celebratory sacrificing. Most schools and colleges are closed for the day, people invite their neighbors from morning till evening time. Beginning from 9 am, some families can receive well over 50-60 people just in the afternoon! Then more rounds continue into the night. A holiday like this one reminds people of their connections to each other and the humility of Abraham in his obedience to God. I find that in my experience, most families are not terribly religious but still uphold traditions well. My host Grandfather reads a very beautiful Arabic prayer before and after the meals are served, as a blessing. [He's been to Mecca 3 times, so I think he can safely give a blessing!]

My family last year did offer a goat and shared it with copious guests in the traditional form of besbarmak. I will be going to see them and I'll celebrate this "festival of sacrifice" with lots of mutton, some sweet chak-chak and lots of black tea. I must confess, I do miss being amongst my Kazakhstani family for those holidays, I am looking forward to tomorrow.

A Brief Tirade

So here we are, 4th of November already. I'm looking forward to the next few months [the events, not the cold] and I'll be filling up these posts with more descriptions and reflections as often as I have time. Since the teacher training my workload hasn't lessened at all, which at this time of my service is a blessing and a curse to be honest. With Jamie and Drew's departure,time has seemed to slow a bit, without much free time to accompany. Usually, when someone is super busy, time tends to fly, but lately, not for me. It's not a thing to worry or fret over, since I know when the new volunteers arrive and Ghulzhan finally comes home, things will really pick up again. It's a strange phenomenon, having 28 hours of classes a week [minus clubs] and Kazakh/German lessons on the side, plus usual lesson planning, I should feel like there are not enough minutes in the day. BUT, i think because Jamie and Drew leaving to go back home, i mean real HOME it makes me realize just how much time I have left, even if i've already been here for over a year. ANYWAY, that doesn't seem to be so exciting or edifying for anyone reading this. So, moving on.Something that I think would be interesting to talk about in this post is the structure of a typical college out here [namely,

mine].So, if you are at all not really interested in this subject, feel free to pass it on by.

So, starting from the very top, we have the Director. This woman[or man] is the "Queen" of the college[high school]. The whole structure revolves around this person's every wish, whim and desire. Right underneath the Director are the Zavuchs, or the assistant principals.

These people answer directly to the Director and can be thought of abstractly as her entourage.

They are the ones to check teachers, students and reprimand anyone whenever necessary. They are also the ones to dock paychecks and employ countless displays of nepotism [but that's a whole other story, which I would be wise not to get into here]. Then, under the Zavuchs you have the administrative staff [accountants, secretaries, etc]. This group makes up the majority of the staff, alongside teachers.

At my college there are different "faculties" or vocations that each department of teachers belongs to. Primary Education English, Economics, History, Finance/Accounting, Interpreter English, Mathematics and Computer Programming are the biggest ones my college has.

The reason I wanted to write about this part of my experience is because recently the Director of my college made a bold move in her efforts to control the students [and staff]. I don't really disagree with her actions but I can understand how my co-workers are really upset by it.

In my college we have two buildings [each 4 stories high] that are connected by a long hallway. Recently, one of the entrances to the college was closed completely. This means that everyone must enter and exit through the same doors and subsequently must travel along the same hallway to reach either building. The Director went a step further and set up cameras all along this hallway. 7 in total.

What does this mean exactly? Her zavuchs [the entourage] now have the ability to check and see if students are skipping class early, if teachers are late getting to and from work and if anyone is messing around in the hallways or pulling the fire extinguisher lever [which happened 3 times last month]. When seen in this light, the move to control and monitor the flow of students makes sense. BUT, there seems to be a different side to the whole situation which makes this kind of advancement detrimental to the keeping of staff and general well being of the college as a whole.

Most of the teachers I work with are underpaid and overworked. Their accomplishments, good teaching skills and general effort every day never get any positive feedback. There is no framework for motivation or proper leadership. They have meetings, but mostly the zavuchs are telling them what they need to do without needing much input from the teachers themselves.

The administration seems to forget, or not even recognize the fact that without teachers, you have no students, without students you have no money, and without money.. well, there's just nothing.

So couldn't we assume that the leadership in an institution of learning would take care of it's most important commodity, the teaching staff? I may be getting carried away here, but like I said, my insight is into the everyday life of a working Kazakh woman and I can tell you, it's not easy. Lots of women tend to have children [especially boys] who are a little on the wild side, coupled with all the duties of home when you add work related stress, the

combination of factors is liable to make any one person snap.

You may be asking yourself why exactly am I going off on all these tirades about how poorly I perceive my teachers are being treated by the leadership in charge?

One, it's sad but true. This is my way of venting about it and Two, I'm becoming more and more interested in the dynamics of leadership and how one person's leadership can drastically change the atmosphere for a large group of people. I would love, love, love to be able to share any sort of leadership advice or simple tactic with her!

BUT It would all be futile, since she doesn't have to [nor will] listen to the opinions of anyone else. I don't mean to paint her in such a terrible light, she is a very strong woman and I commend her

for being so successful in what is usually a man's position. BUT, I must add the disclaimer that too often in the educational systems here, corruption is just too easy to come by. And do I blame them for taking part? NO. It's made easier and easier by circumstance and kept that way. For the system to change, it has to be a major grassroots movement and begin with the new generations of administrators, teachers and leaders. Who knows where the dynamics of education will go from here.

To tie all of my earlier venting to a solidified point, I mainly want to illustrate the TRUE dynamics of how relationships at my work operate here in my experience. I must also add that I by no means make any assertion that I know everything that goes on within the walls of my work, merely I want to simply illustrate the cultural differences [and clashes] that I have come across working here for a year and a 1/2. Whew.

Thanks for reading. :)